– [Adam] Hey everybody,
Adam from Atlas Gunworks.

We’re gonna talk about guns
that have hammer follows.

So, a hammer follow is a
scenario where the gun cycles,

(gun cocks)

and the hammer follows the slide.

(hip hop music)

(gun firing)

Most of the time when that happens,

the gun’s gonna stop here
on this half-cock notch,

so you see it out just a little bit.

If it was fully forward,

it would be recessed in here a little bit.

So, most of the time, you’re
gonna see it on the half-cock

and there’s a couple of things goin’ on

that could cause either
one of those scenarios.

So, the first thing, we’re gonna assume

that you didn’t just do
a trigger job on the gun.

If the gun just got a trigger job,

then there could be some
geometry issues in here.

So, that assumption is that
the gun’s been running,

it’s shot at least a thousand
rounds with no problems.

The more rounds you have on a
gun with zero trigger issues,

the more you know that the
geometry in here is good.

Now, we’re gonna talk
about the other things

that can affect that and
that’s mainly from use.

So, a lot of it has to do with
the gun kinda getting dirty,

and then some of it has
to do with the settings

that are here too, the going ons.

So first thing, gun hammer follows.

You shoot the gun and the
symptoms would be this:

you look down, you’ve shot the gun,

the gun has the ammo in it,

it’s cycled and the
hammer’s in this position.

Or, if you get a double fire.

So, if it doesn’t catch
on the half cock notch,

that hammer will follow the slide,

and potentially set the next round off.

So, what are we gonna check first?

There’s three primary things here.

This is all stuff you can
do at home and maintenance

you should be kinda doing
on your own, anyway.

The pre-travel, so after the gun breaks,

there’s my sear engagement,
and then that movement after,

if that’s too short,
you’re gonna have the gun

start to hammer follow.

So it’s as simple as taking
almost all these triggers

have a set screw in them,
no matter who you’re using.

And you’re gonna back that up,

that screw that hits,

that screw hits this,
the mag catch, right?

There’s a bar in there that
that makes contact with.

It stops the over-travel.

That’s gonna let the
trigger go back further,

and then you’re gonna be good there.

There is a window where
that needs to operate.

If your trigger goes too far back,

you can actually pin the
disconnector so it doesn’t move.

That’s unusual, but it’s a possibility.

So, you wanna be in that nice zone,

where you’re getting a little bit of,

we call that post travel
after the sear breaks,

but not a terrible amount.

I don’t have good numbers
off the top of my head,

but probably an eighth of an inch.

So, the second thing we’re gonna check

is that the disconnector is moving freely,

and has good spring pressure.

So, this one’s fine.

This is a brand new gun.

Maybe I’ll turn that up
with this air spring.

But I need this to not stick at all.

As you shoot the gun,

carbon’s gonna get built
up in this channel.

Whether it’s a 20 or a
1911, it won’t matter.

Carbon’s gonna get
built up in that channel

and if there’s not enough clearance,

or you get something
really sticky in there,

that can slow that down.

If this is delayed and coming up,

it’s gonna cause the
guns to hammer follow.

So, nice movement there.

In this gun, we’re gonna say
okay, that’s good enough.

We’re gonna call that clean.

Let’s say it passed those first two tests.

This first one, you can do
right on the range easily, too.

You just have to have the
right Allen key with you.

But let’s assume that those
two things have passed.

The third thing to check


is the trigger travel.

So, I can do it with a
hammer and sear in the gun,

but I wanna make sure
the trigger free-floats,

and bounces with no spring pressure on it.

So, I want it to return to
zero, and be nice and fast.

If this is a little
sluggish, if it’s slow,

if it’s slow on the way back,

then we need to just get
in there and clean that.

This needs to move freely.

Now, when you have a trigger

with a four and five pound trigger

that’s being driven by the sear spring,

that will often overcome super
dirty or things being tight,

or the disco channel being really dirty,

’cause all the spring pressure,

both those things happen
from this middle spring.

But, if you’re running two
pound, sub-two pound triggers,

everything has to move in there freely

and you have a lot less
spring pressure helping you.

So, you might have to
clean the gun sooner.

You might have to clearance
this a little more.

To not deal with that a ton,

you might have to switch
to a cleaner powder.

Running a cleaner powder
in the limited guns

makes a big difference in
how often you’ve got to

address these kind of issues.

But that’s your one, two, three.

Now, if the gun just got a trigger job,

there’s a chance that this geometry

in the hammer and sear aren’t right.

But if you’ve got a thousand
or more rounds on it,

there’s a good chance that it’s
something simple like this.

So, there’s your troubleshooting
for hammer follow.

When you go back to test the guns,

if it’s doing that, the best thing to do

is to load two rounds in the mag.

That way if you get a gun
that’s hammer following,

it doesn’t let off three or four rounds,

it only lets off the second one.

So, load your mags up all with two.

I hope that helps, see you
guys on the range soon.

(hip hop music)