– [Adam] Hey everybody,
Adam from Atlas Gunworks.

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We’re gonna talk about guns
that have hammer follows.

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So, a hammer follow is a
scenario where the gun cycles,

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(gun cocks)

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and the hammer follows the slide.

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(hip hop music)

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(gun firing)

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Most of the time when that happens,

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the gun’s gonna stop here
on this half-cock notch,

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so you see it out just a little bit.

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If it was fully forward,

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it would be recessed in here a little bit.

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So, most of the time, you’re
gonna see it on the half-cock

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and there’s a couple of things goin’ on

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that could cause either
one of those scenarios.

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So, the first thing, we’re gonna assume

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that you didn’t just do
a trigger job on the gun.

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If the gun just got a trigger job,

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then there could be some
geometry issues in here.

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So, that assumption is that
the gun’s been running,

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it’s shot at least a thousand
rounds with no problems.

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The more rounds you have on a
gun with zero trigger issues,

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the more you know that the
geometry in here is good.

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Now, we’re gonna talk
about the other things

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that can affect that and
that’s mainly from use.

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So, a lot of it has to do with
the gun kinda getting dirty,

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and then some of it has
to do with the settings

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that are here too, the going ons.

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So first thing, gun hammer follows.

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You shoot the gun and the
symptoms would be this:

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you look down, you’ve shot the gun,

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the gun has the ammo in it,

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it’s cycled and the
hammer’s in this position.

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Or, if you get a double fire.

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So, if it doesn’t catch
on the half cock notch,

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that hammer will follow the slide,

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and potentially set the next round off.

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So, what are we gonna check first?

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There’s three primary things here.

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This is all stuff you can
do at home and maintenance

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you should be kinda doing
on your own, anyway.

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The pre-travel, so after the gun breaks,

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there’s my sear engagement,
and then that movement after,

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if that’s too short,
you’re gonna have the gun

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start to hammer follow.

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So it’s as simple as taking
almost all these triggers

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have a set screw in them,
no matter who you’re using.

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And you’re gonna back that up,

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that screw that hits,

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that screw hits this,
the mag catch, right?

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There’s a bar in there that
that makes contact with.

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It stops the over-travel.

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That’s gonna let the
trigger go back further,

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and then you’re gonna be good there.

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There is a window where
that needs to operate.

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If your trigger goes too far back,

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you can actually pin the
disconnector so it doesn’t move.

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That’s unusual, but it’s a possibility.

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So, you wanna be in that nice zone,

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where you’re getting a little bit of,

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we call that post travel
after the sear breaks,

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but not a terrible amount.

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I don’t have good numbers
off the top of my head,

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but probably an eighth of an inch.

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So, the second thing we’re gonna check

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is that the disconnector is moving freely,

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and has good spring pressure.

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So, this one’s fine.

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This is a brand new gun.

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Maybe I’ll turn that up
with this air spring.

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But I need this to not stick at all.

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As you shoot the gun,

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carbon’s gonna get built
up in this channel.

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Whether it’s a 20 or a
1911, it won’t matter.

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Carbon’s gonna get
built up in that channel

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and if there’s not enough clearance,

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or you get something
really sticky in there,

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that can slow that down.

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If this is delayed and coming up,

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it’s gonna cause the
guns to hammer follow.

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So, nice movement there.

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In this gun, we’re gonna say
okay, that’s good enough.

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We’re gonna call that clean.

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Let’s say it passed those first two tests.

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This first one, you can do
right on the range easily, too.

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You just have to have the
right Allen key with you.

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But let’s assume that those
two things have passed.

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The third thing to check

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(knocking)

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is the trigger travel.

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So, I can do it with a
hammer and sear in the gun,

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but I wanna make sure
the trigger free-floats,

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and bounces with no spring pressure on it.

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So, I want it to return to
zero, and be nice and fast.

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If this is a little
sluggish, if it’s slow,

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if it’s slow on the way back,

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then we need to just get
in there and clean that.

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This needs to move freely.

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Now, when you have a trigger

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with a four and five pound trigger

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that’s being driven by the sear spring,

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that will often overcome super
dirty or things being tight,

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or the disco channel being really dirty,

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’cause all the spring pressure,

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both those things happen
from this middle spring.

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But, if you’re running two
pound, sub-two pound triggers,

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everything has to move in there freely

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and you have a lot less
spring pressure helping you.

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So, you might have to
clean the gun sooner.

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You might have to clearance
this a little more.

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To not deal with that a ton,

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you might have to switch
to a cleaner powder.

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Running a cleaner powder
in the limited guns

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makes a big difference in
how often you’ve got to

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address these kind of issues.

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But that’s your one, two, three.

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Now, if the gun just got a trigger job,

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there’s a chance that this geometry

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in the hammer and sear aren’t right.

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But if you’ve got a thousand
or more rounds on it,

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there’s a good chance that it’s
something simple like this.

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So, there’s your troubleshooting
for hammer follow.

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When you go back to test the guns,

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if it’s doing that, the best thing to do

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is to load two rounds in the mag.

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That way if you get a gun
that’s hammer following,

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it doesn’t let off three or four rounds,

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it only lets off the second one.

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So, load your mags up all with two.

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I hope that helps, see you
guys on the range soon.

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(hip hop music)